Common Boa (Boa imperator) Care Guide

Common boas are a very recognizable snake from South America that is common in the pet trade. They are often referred to as the best first big snake due to their generally docile personalities and large, but still manageable, size. Common boas have straightforward care requirements and are generally very hardy snakes. They are also known to have a voracious feeding response unlike the popular ball python, which a lot of people are drawn to.

Types of Boas

There are several species of boa constrictors in South America. Most boa constrictors used to be classified as Boa constrictor until recently, when the Red-tailed boa and common boas were defined as different species. Red-tailed boas are now classified as Boa constrictor. Common boas, also called Central American boas, are now classified as Boa imperator. Red-tailed boas’ range further south than that of Common boas. Common boas (Boa imperator) generally reach 5-8ft long, while Red-tailed boas (Boa constrictor) can reach 10-12ft long.. Although the two species have similar care, they are different enough that this care guide will only be appropriate for Common boas (Boa imperator).

The Enclosure

Most of the husbandry points that need to be met for any reptile will be checked off by their enclosure setup. Setting up a proper enclosure is the most important aspect of reptile care, and common boas are no exception. These snakes get much larger than a lot of other popular snakes in the pet trade, so be mindful that they need a much larger enclosure too!

Size and Material

Let’s face it, common boas get big. Ideally, the enclosure will be long enough for them to completely stretch out. Females are longer and bulkier than males. Females typically reach 7-8ft long, but sometimes larger. Male common boas usually reach 5-6ft long, so their enclosure requirements aren’t as demanding. Adult common boas exceeding 8ft in length should be housed in a 8x4x4ft enclosure, while smaller adults can be housed in a 6x3x3ft enclosure. Common boas grow slowly and take an average of three years to reach their full size, so having smaller enclosures that you upgrade accordingly is an acceptable way to keep common boas in captivity.

PVC is the preferred material for common boas because it maintains humidity very well. PVC is also very durable, and lasts a long time if properly maintained. There are several manufacturers of large PVC enclosures, or you can build your own!

Snakes are often predated on by birds in the wild, so it is never advisable to approach them from above. For this reason, we recommend a front-opening enclosure for common boas. It lessens the possibility of a defensive strike when you get them out of their enclosure.

Substrate

An appropriate substrate for common boas is readily available both to mix yourself or to purchase. Common boas are a moderately high-humidity species and require stable, constant humidity in the 60-75% range. Substrate is a huge factor in humidity maintenance, and there are several options for substrate. Two reliable examples include:

A 60/20/20 mixture of organic topsoil/peat moss/play sand
Coconut fiber

Both of these options hold moisture very well without molding too quickly. This allows you to pour water on the substrate instead of misting, which is much better for maintaining constant humidity. Misting the enclosure tends to create spikes of humidity rather than a consistent level. Adding some sphagnum moss and leaf litter on top of the substrate will help lock in moisture.

Avoid pine and cedar shavings, as the fumes are toxic to snakes.

Bioactive substrates are an option for common boas, but a full bioactive guide would be too lengthy to include in this guide. The distinction between naturalistic and bioactive substrates is that bioactive substrates include a living clean-up crew and create a self-sustaining environment. On the surface, a naturalistic and bioactive enclosure may look the same - the difference lies in the presence of a clean-up crew and requiring live plants in bioactive enclosures. Keep in mind that boas are a heavy-bodied snake - a recipe for plant destruction - with a slow metabolism and infrequent bowel movements, so you will need to supplement the clean-up crew’s food.

Temperature

Common boas, like all other snakes, are cold-blooded. Cold-blooded animals are completely reliant on the temperature in their environment to regulate their internal body temperature. Reptiles frequently move between warm and cool parts of their environment in order to keep their body temperature where it needs to be. Many species will bask to absorb lots of heat, and then move into burrows or shady areas to cool down. The goal of keeping any reptile should be to replicate its natural environment as closely as possible to keep the animal comfortable, happy, and healthy.

To ensure that your common boa can regulate their body temperature how it needs to, you should provide a temperature gradient in their enclosure. Placing the heating elements on one side of the enclosure is an easy way to achieve a cool side, a warm side, and a basking spot. The cool side of the enclosure should be around 75-77°F, and the hot side should be around 83-85°F. Your boa should have access to a basking spot at around 90°F.

The distinction between the term ‘basking spot’ and ‘warm side’ is that the basking spot is a single surface where you measure the temperature of the surface instead of the ambient air temperature. The basking spot can be made with something like a flat rock that holds heat, such as slate. A temperature gun is the easiest way to measure the basking spot, and thermometers work well for measuring ambient air temperatures of the warm and cool side.

Reptiles benefit from a cooldown period at night. It helps build their immune system and regulates their metabolism. Common boas’ nighttime cooldown temperature should be minimum 70°F and a maximum of 73°F. If your home gets cooler than 70°F at night, you will need to supplement a heat source that does not generate light such as a deep heat projector or ceramic heat emitter. Deep heat projectors are preferred, as ceramic heat emitters sap humidity.

Lighting and UVB

Common boas are nocturnal animals, but this does not mean they should not have light in their enclosure. Humans are diurnal, but we would go insane if we had light all the time!

The best way to provide heat and light for your common boa is to replicate their natural heat and light source as closely as possible; the sun! The sun provides three sources of energy to the earth - visible light, infrared in the form of heat, and ultraviolet light. Halogen bulbs are the closest replication to natural sunlight that you can easily and safely use for reptiles. Halogen bulbs produce visible light and infrared heat in similar proportions to sunlight. PAR38 dimmable halogen flood bulbs are ideal, they provide a wide spread so the heat isn’t too concentrated, and they are safe to use on a thermostat. Thermostats are absolute requirements to ensure the safety of your animal and home. Also be sure that your snake cannot make contact with the heating element, which can cause serious burns. There are light cages available that prevent your snake from making contact with the bulb.

Please see our Heating and Lighting Guide for a more in-depth guide on this topic!

Providing UVB for common boas is frequently argued as unnecessary, but we believe providing UVB for is very beneficial for them. T5 strip-style UVB bulbs are ideal, as it produces healthy amounts of UVB that is not overly concentrated. Common boas need mild amounts of UVB, and should be supplied with a forest-dweller style T5 bulb. The UVB strip should cover the warm part of their enclosure, so be sure to provide a UVB strip bulb that is 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the enclosure. It is necessary to replace T5 UVB bulbs every 12 months as they get less effective over time.

Your boas’ enclosure should be dark at night. If it gets too cold in their enclosure at night (below 70°F) you will need to supply a non-light producing heat source.

Humidity

The humidity for common boas is between 60-75% in their natural environment, so you will want to replicate that to allow them to shed and prevent respiratory issues. The hot side will always have lower humidity than the cool side, aim for 60% humidity on the warm side and 75% humidity on the cool side. You will provide a humid hide for your common boa so they can access higher humidity if they want to. This humid hide should sit around 85% humidity. A humid hide can be achieved by adding a material like sphagnum moss to a hide (such as a cave, log, etc.) and keeping the moss inside damp. Snakes often seek higher humidity while they are shedding, and having a humid hide available to your boa at all times will let them shed comfortably and regulate themselves.

Decor and Hides

Decorating your enclosure is very much up to personal preference. We will go over some basics, but how you achieve them is up to you!

Provide three total hides - one on the cool side, one on the warm side, and one in the middle to act as the humid hide we covered in the humidity section. The hides should be snug but large enough for the snake to fit its body into. Having a hide in all parts of the enclosure allows the snake to thermoregulate while feeling secure
Provide climbing opportunities like heavy-duty branches, rocks, and more. Male common boas are not as heavy-bodied as females and are more inclined (get it?) to climb.
Provide a large water bowl and keep the water clean and fresh. If your humidity is too low, putting the water bowl on the hot side will help increase the humidity levels - the water evaporates faster on the hot side.

Everyday Life and Maintenance

Now that we have covered the enclosure, it’s time to get into other aspects of your common boa’s husbandry!

Types of Feeders and Frequency

Common boas are opportunistic predators and eat a wide variety of prey in the wild. In captivity, frozen/thawed prey is ideal. Common boas are rarely picky eaters, and a varied diet is key.

Common boas are opportunistic predators and eat a wide variety of prey in the wild. In captivity, frozen/thawed prey is ideal. Common boas are voracious eaters and you should be mindful of their feeding response when handling. Common boas are rarely picky eaters, and a varied diet is key.

Mice
Rats
Quail
Guinea pigs
Rabbits
Ducks
Chickens

Common boas have slow metabolisms compared to a lot of other snakes. An approximate feeding schedule should be something like this:

Hatchling to 1 year: every 10-12 days, spacing out more as they get older
1-2 years: every 14-21 days, spacing out more as they get older
2-3 years: every 3-4 weeks, spacing out more as they get older
3-4 years: every 4-6 weeks, spacing out more as they get older
4 years and older: every 1-2 months

This all assumes your boa is healthy. If your boa is ill, it may need a feeding schedule change. Please consult your veterinarian for advice.

Shedding

Common boas shed their skin regularly. They shed more frequently as they are growing, but still do so as adults. Higher humidity is preferred when they are shedding, so providing the humid hide mentioned in the humidity section in this guide is important. Common boas’ color may fade right before shedding, and you may notice their eyes look cloudy. Both of these things are normal. The cloudy eyes occur because there is actually a large, single scale over their eye that comes off with the rest of their shed skin when they release it. It is advisable to leave your snake alone when it is ‘in shed’ as they often feel vulnerable while doing so. The tell for being ‘in shed’ is when their eyes are cloudy - leave them alone and make sure the humidity is higher than normal. When their shed comes off they will feel better and you can resume handling as normal.

If you notice that your boa’s shed skin comes off in pieces or is patchy (parts of the shed still stuck to your boa) the humidity is likely not high enough for them. Their shed should come off in one complete piece. Adjust your humidity to be around 80% or higher and raise it as needed until their shed comes off cleanly.

Clean-Up and Health Check-Ins

Daily Maintenance

Your snake should have access to fresh water at all times. If you notice your snake’s water bowl frequently has substrate in it, consider moving it onto a smoother surface like a rocky area.

Waste clean-up may be yucky to some, but waste production is natural! It’s important to spot-clean their enclosure of any feces or urates as soon as you notice them. Common boas have slow metabolisms, and will generally defecate after each meal especially when they are younger. Adults sometimes will defecate less frequently. This is generally not cause for alarm, but keep track of their feeding and defecating schedule so you can monitor them.

Snakes secrete kidney waste in the form of a solid mass called a urate rather than pure liquid. Healthy urates are soft, white, and chalky and may have small amounts of liquid around them. It is important to check daily for waste to ensure a clean environment. Additionally, often the first tell of a sick snake is seen in its waste.

Health Checks

Some health concern indicators include but are not limited to:

Orange or dark yellow urates
- Typically caused by dehydration
- Check humidity and address as needed
Watery stools
- Can be caused by internal parasites, stress, or if the frozen/thawed food item was exceptionally wet
- Cause for concern if watery stools happen twice in a row
- Check temperatures - ideal temperatures are essential to digestive health
Particularly smelly waste
- This can be due to parasite infection - monitor your snake for other signs of illness
Stuck shed
- See shedding section
Stuck eyecaps
- Common boas’ eyes are covered by a transparent scale, which in cases of stuck shed may not come off properly
- May be remedied by very gently rubbing the snake’s eyecap with a wet Q-tip. If you are uncomfortable doing so or if your snake is too wiggly, seek veterinary care
- If the gentle rubbing method does not work, do not attempt to pull off the stuck eyecap yourself. Doing so may cause permanent eye damage or blindness. Always consult a professional if the eyecap is not coming off with the wet Q-tip method
Scale rot
- A bacterial infection usually caused by the substrate being too wet or dirty
- Look for discolored scales on the snake’s belly - this is a sign of scale rot but could be harmless. Monitor closely
- Diagnosis and treatment requires a veterinarian
Mouth rot
- Look for swelling, discoloration, discharge, and other abnormalities in the mouth area
- Numerous infectious causes
- Diagnosis and treatment requires a veterinarian
Respiratory Infections
- Listen for whistling or wheezing noises when the snake breathes
- May cause discharge from the nose or mouth, sometimes it looks like drooling
- Often caused by improper husbandry, especially improper humidity levels
- Diagnosis and treatment requires a veterinarian
Burns
- Causes discoloration, usually pink to red patches
- Can be caused by not having a dimming thermostat
- More common with the heat mats and belly heat methods not discussed in this guide, as we feel under-tank heating is not ideal for boas.
Mites
- Small, external parasites typically transmitted from an infected animal
- Will look like black specks in between the scales that move if touched
- Can be treated with mite sprays
- If DIY treatment fails, seek a veterinarian

Always consult a professional if you have concerns about your pet’s health. We are not veterinarians and these are guidelines.

Quarantine Period

(Especially important if you have pythons!)

All new reptiles in your home should be housed separately from other animals for at least 60 days. Ideally, the quarantined animal will be in a separate room. Set up a sanitary enclosure and use paper towels or newspaper for substrate so you can carefully monitor their waste - oddities in their waste is often the first sign of illness.

Boas can carry a viral infection called Inclusion body disease, or IBD. It is more common in captive boa constrictors than other snake species. There is no cure for inclusion body disease, and can cause a myriad of symptoms such as neurological, breathing, and digestive problems. The disease is progressive and gets worse over time. Some boas show little or no symptoms and can live with IBD for years, but are still contagious. If your boa exhibits any neurological issues such as corkscrewing or stargazing, immediately take them to the vet and have them tested for IBD. Unfortunately, if they have IBD and their symptoms are severe, euthanasia is the kindest option.

This is especially important for python owners because IBD is incredibly lethal to pythons. Whereas boas can live with IBD, the disease is usually fatal to pythons within weeks of contracting the illness.

Mites are thought to carry IBD. If your new boa has mites, be aware that if your boa has IBD the mites can spread it through your reptiles. This is why we recommend having the quarantined snake in a different room.

Acclimation Period

The first week or two that you get your new snake will be very stressful for them. Environment changes are difficult to adapt to, especially if their new environment is not ideal. This is why getting everything setup properly before getting your new pet is so important.

Three important pointers for acclimating new snakes:

If you have other reptiles, quarantine your new snake to prevent the potential spread of disease, internal parasites, and mites. Mites also spread disease, keeping the quarantined snake in a completely separate area is ideal. See the quarantine section for more information
Do not offer food for the first week
Do not handle them for one week and allow them to adapt to their new environment

Two days after your snake eats for the first time with you, you can start interacting more with it. Approach your snake slowly with your hand and make sure it knows you are there. Avoid reaching from above, these snakes instinctively fear predatory birds and may see your hand as a threat.

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